INTERNATIONALLY REKNOWN INDIAN DESIGNER, SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE, PRESENTS A SUPERLATIVE COLLECTION AT LAKME FASHION WEEK FINALE
The much awaited Lakme Fashion Week finale show by Sabyasachi
Mukherjee was a spectacular success. Sabyasachi presented
his Free Spirit Collection, inspired by the New Lakme colour
cosmetic range of the same name that was launched at the
Lakme Fashion Week.
Mumbai's celebs filled the NCPA auditorium to witness fashion
world's most talked about event, and Sabyasachi did not
disappoint, as he visualized his version of the Lakme Free
Sprit by Day and Night.
A master at blending contrasting fabrics and embellishments,
the collection had all the Sabyasachi classics like the
wonderfully crafted smocks, the trapeze dress, the swing
coats and the elegant saris with dramatic cholis as the
creations gradually moved from day to night time glamour.
The colours were deep tones of brown, black, grey, green,
khaki and olive with a touch of orange and gold to portray
a kaleidoscope of cultures that ranged from Rajasthan, to
Mexico and then to Kanyakumari and the fast paced life of
New York.
Perfectly tailored pinafores with mutton chop sleeves,
cutaway armhole smocks, clever colour blocking for the skirts,
frock and trench coats in brocade and silk were part of
this international looking collection. The saris were simple
and created to set the mood, while the matching knit cholis
topped with corsets gave a new fashion direction.
Embellishments were tonal with embroidery, quilting and
piping playing a vital role. Layering is Sabyasachi's forte
which he executed with great panache for short blousons,
minis and even the majestic long gowns.
Accessories ranged from coloured leggings and tights along
with stylish caps and shoes that varied from high heels
to flat masculine lace-ups.
Pria - the master craftsman of seductive, flirtatious designs
It was a collection that every woman would want to covet
and wear for the most important day of her life when she
marries the prince of her dreams.
Sensational embroidery and art deco Parisian prints of the 1920-39 eras were creatively worked together with the streamlined silhouettes of the 50s and 60s.
This fabulous blend was the main stay of the Elita collection by Pria Kataria Puri at the Lakme Fashion Week.
A complete haute couture collection of dresses, gowns, saris and kurta sets, Pria lavished delicate lace, tulle, drapery with exquisite sequins, crystals, sura beads, rhinestone, pearls and silk resham for garments that dazzled and sizzled on the ramp.
The colours were as beautiful as the creations; as midnight blue, romantic rose pin, gold, olive, ivory to pale grey and charcoal provided a perfect back drop for the drop dead gorgeous embellishments.
From the seductive flirtatious gowns to the slinky kurtas and sheer churidars - each garment was a work of master craftsmanship and designs that only Pria is capable of.
The saris with interesting blouses and the innovative lehenga and choli designs will give Indian bridal wear an unconventional transformation.
Recreating the attitude and style of the stylish French woman, Pria's presentation started with a glittering gown and then went on to show a variety of garments with one distinct connecting factor - every garment whether a sari, kurta, gown, dress or skirt were edged with gold delicate lace.
The silhouettes were either slim or luxuriously flowing with interesting sleeves that ranged from large puff to bishop and kimono, while the necklines were square, "V", strapless, halter or Grecian.
For ultra bridal glamour the Elita collection by Pria Kataria Puri will undoubtedly appeal to the global woman.
James Ferriera charts a sensational global fashion course
Making a sensational debut at the Lakme Fashion Week with
his collection titled, "Bombay Tokyo", James Ferriera created
a brilliant western wear line from Mahrashatra's ethnic
textile heritage.
Divided into seven collections the segments had interesting names like Warli, An Ode to Devnagari, The Sholapur Story, Diwali, The Hardy Traditional Towel, The Sari and finally Black Magic.
Where James scored was with his mastery over construction, cut and drape which he used stunningly for fabrics as diverse as chaddars, towels, dhotis and saris.
He also dipped into the enduring Maharashtrian art treasure by selectively using Warli paintings and the Paithani motifs on garments.
The chaddars were ideal for halters, jumpsuit with a moulded jacket, and a mini with a stitched pallav drape. The towels, dyed black, were unrecognisable for cocktail dresses while the dhoti fabric collection was an intricate exercise of draw string placements and origami shapes for dresses. While the rich nine yard saris were cleverly converted into tunics and dresses based on the different sari drapes of India.
James used the marigold and leaf motif on black shirts with interesting cowl necks where the construction was governed often by giant reverse darts, sleek minis and trendy club wear.
The Warli paintings danced on T-shirts, shorts, or were appliquéd on voile skirts and dresses.
The finale had the glittering Paithani designs embroidered on black georgette for amazingly structured garments.
James used the beauty of all these ethnic fabrics to the fullest. In an innovative manner the edges of the fabrics were turned into borders for the hemlines, sleeves and necklines to give the garments a natural finish.
When it comes to extreme creativity of the ultimate standard, then James Ferriera's "Bombay Tokyo" collection will definitely receive kudos from buyers and customers from around the globe.
Nalandda Bhandari shows her spirit
The collection was called Free Spirit and that is exactly what designer Nalandda Bhandari has visualised for the women who will wear her garments in Spring/Summer 2007 under her label Nasha.
From a delightful white chiffon fish tail tunic with gold and rainbow sequin embroidery teamed with a gold satin pair of shorts, the scene was set for garments that had the distinct touch of the designer.
Soon there were sheer mul tunics with tie ups, a white cotton layered top and skirt and a white jersey dress with black trim all sporting the striking Nasha logo—the rose.
Crepe, jersey, cotton, voile, chiffon, silk, and georgette were ideal fabric choices for the collection, but Nalandda also played effectively with animal prints and peacock and African embroidery motifs to add that touch of drama and free flowing splendour to her garments.
The silhouettes moved from minis, to shirts and skirts, a tube dress, kaftans and finally onto a long burnt gold gown with large gold rose embroidery.
While Nalandda kept her detailing quite simple; she favoured the appearance of her rose logo on most of the garments including a solitary men's black shirt which sported the bright red rose on the back.
For a medley of glamorous garments that a woman can wear from dawn to dusk, the Free Spirit collection Nasha, the label by Nalandda Bhandari, will be one that will score high on the style and fashion charts.
Lascelles Symons’ collection for the gods
It was a collection the Greek goddesses would have coveted
and the gladiators fought over.
Lascelles Symons' presentation titled Aurum for Spring/Summer 2007 was a symphony of colour and drape in truly feminine styles that would turn any woman into a goddess.
Terming his collection as a cocktail prêt line, Lascelles picked the most dramatic colours to start his fashion story. Ruby, jade, coral and turquoise along with citrine and pearl was chosen in fabrics that draped and moulded the female form perfectly in minis, dresses, tunics and tops.
Detailing for the minis started with intricate Fleur De Lie drapes, pin tucks, reversed distressed pleats that textured the fabrics and gave the garments that exciting fashion edge.
Some of the stunning creations were the flowing cowl sleeve mini with front and back attachment, the nude beige empire line bubble hem halter midi, the shaded peach pin tuck low waist dress, a seductive sarong dress in fuchsia and finally a black halter gown with gold girdles on the bodice.
Lascelles added colourful cummerbunds topped with contrasting ribbons for added interest. The colour combinations were at times unconventional—mustard with turquoise and black.
Necklines were restricted to halter, empire line or delicate cowl necks, which fitted perfectly into the theme of the collection.
Lascelles scored on all fronts with his collection that will surely create a stir not only among mortals but maybe even the gods.
Sanjay Malhotra’s deja vu delights
"Life through my rose coloured glasses" was the unusual inspiration for Deja vu the name given by Sanjay Malhotra to his Spring/Summer 2007 collection at Lakme Fashion Week. The collection of multi-coloured, layered and designed garments that came down the ramp reflected his love for life.
It was a line of garments aimed at dressing the modern Indian mature woman who enjoys a creative mix of fabrics that range from chiffon, georgettes, silks, laces, voiles, net, denim, brocades, tanchois—many of them trimmed with fur, feathers, leather and suede to give a very futuristic look.
The fabrics were mixed and matched or contrasted completely in their weight, design, colour and texture to turn into garments that had a lot of attitude and style.
Some of the interesting creations were a cutwork dress with mirror work bodice and giant bubble puff sleeves, which opened the show, an ivory mirror work jacket with chiffon sleeves, a multi colour corset skirt with a net petticoat, a grey/peach shaded lace chiffon fur edged tunic, a pink chiffon layered dress and a sexy yellow lace halter.
Hemlines were fluid as they moved from mini to midi and finally floor length for a striking black layered gown which appeared to be inspired by the Scarlett O'Hara look from the film Gone with the Wind.
Sanjay Malholtra's Deja vu line could be termed as strikingly different and eye-catching and one that will make any woman a crowd puller wherever she goes.
Payal Singhal’s Big Apple chic
Payal Singhal's debut show at Lakme Fashion Week brought
the glamorous chic of the Big Apple with her New York inspired
collection for Spring/Summer 2007.
Working with fabrics that could fit into the budget of the stylish global working women, Payal selected seersucker, cutwork, satin, cotton, crepe, taffeta, brocade, georgette, jacquard and tulle for a cross section of club and party wear in just three basic silhouettes—bubble, trapeze and blouson for dresses and tunics with just a few empire line outfits.
The tunics and blousons were all teamed with an assortment of colourful gold, silver or melon leggings or tights.
So enamoured was Payal by the bubble silhouette that she worked it into an oyster white kaftan with gold embroidery.
Payal's colours were young and practical to move smoothly from day to evening glamour, so her choice was quite definite as she started with oyster white followed by tea rose, maize yellow, coffee, watermelon, and then moved on to grapefruit.
Using her embellishments creatively, Payal had mukaish work for the bodice and stunning stone work for collars and, at other times, just a hint of embroidery.
The hemlines were not rigid in their position, but moved from the waist for blouses, to hip, thigh and knee length.
Garment presentation was restricted to just one or two, though Payal had a watermelon quilted brocade jacket teamed with shorts and tights.
It was a trendy cute collection that Payal created, which will appeal to women who want to dress to make an impact.
Sanchita keeps the holidays in mind
Sanchita, an India born and Austria bred designer, presented
a collection of continental resort wear for Carbon at the
Lakme Fashion Week.
With shades of white, opal, black onyx, agate, apatite, jade and jet, it was time to move to the beaches of either Copacabana, St Tropez or the Riviera in sexy stunning bikinis and pareos or Hawaiian inspired kaftans, minis, tiny balloon skirts and floaty dresses.
Putting her collection into three segments that took the wearer through Copacabana, Punk Chic and Swinging Deco, Sanchita worked with clinging jersey, silk and muslins for garments that were very apt for the summer of 2007.
Embellishments were restricted to semi precious stones, delicate patchwork to give an unforgettable touch to the garments.
Matching Sanchita's designs for the holiday season were Carbon's beautifully crafted jewellery pieces and bags that complemented the garments.
To add more glamour to her collection, Sanchita had grey mélange T-shirts with silver leggings, nude strapless dresses with silver embellishments, Lycra T-shirts with sleeve ornamentations. She ended the show with a line of sexy jersey shorts and one strapless dresses embellished with brooches, necklaces and earrings.
To give the stronger sex some importance she added a shapely cut white tuxedo jacket with embroidered poplin white trousers, and some T-shirts for casual wear.
Simple but stylish is how the Sanchita for Carbon collection can be termed, with clothes that can be worn on beaches the world over..
Narendra Kumar wins another standing ovation
If Narendra Kumar's last show at the Lakme Fashion week
was a silent presentation that amazed the audience, then
his show at the Lakme Fashion Week this time around was
even more unconventional with models walking in to taped
train and traffic sounds and live readings from romantic
novels by eminent stage personalities.
It is impossible to describe Narendra Kumar's collection
called when "Love Touches You" in a few hundred
words; for each garment was a work of art at its ultimate
best, displaying intricate construction and craft with creative
designing.
The predominantly western line of women's wear received
the master's touches when linen, silk, cotton, mull, georgette
and net accompanied by excellent tailoring and a very high
standard of finishing resulted in silhouettes and volume
of the unconventional kind.
Pushing the design element to its very ultimate limits,
Narendra turned the conventional bubble, shirt, skirt, bloomers,
and shirts onto a totally untried styling path.
Each garment had several detailing directions, which however,
blended together perfectly. Smocked and pleated skirts,
half collars, side drawstrings for dresses and skirts, a
combo of balloon skirt and shirt dress, or a combo of chiffon
and appliqué sleeves - the list is endless but the
results amazing.
Colours were muted so typical of Narendra's preference
so it was beige, brown, dull jade, blue, and saffron embellished
with traditional crafts like appliqué, smocking,
shadow work and embroidery.
Suffice it to say that Narendra Kumar deserved every bit
of the standing ovation and the shower of red carnations
that he got from a wildly appreciating audience.
Savio creates drama with stark, simple look
Savio Jon`s collection at Lakme Fashion Week spelt comfort
with a capital C. Devoid of any form of structuring he allowed
his garments to hang loose around the body.
Using the most fluid and sheer fabrics like chiffon, georgette,
crepe, mul and nearly invisible fish net, that had to be
layered intensely to make them opaque in nature, Savio achieved
this by teaming up even three or four pieces over one another
for a flowing comfortable effect.
Oversized blouses, struggled from under long line blousons,
floppily dresses swished around the models; the pinafore
silhouette was brought in for blouses, dresses and long
lean maxis. The tube or the shift was nearly almost always
devoid of any darts or seam structuring and volume played
a major role in the collection. The colours were neutral
with white, beige, grey, black, brown and pale yellow used
over each other or solo, made a muted fashion statement.
Deep scooped armholes, low front and back necklines with
careless cowls, some raw edges and overlooking as a detailing;
gave a quirky slightly humorous touch to the garments.
For evening glamour, Savio Jon retained the tubular silhouettes
but added some shimmer to the otherwise simple garments.
Known for his simplicity in creations which are at the
same time outstanding in value and attraction, Savio Jon's
Spring/Summer 2007 line was a serene blend of subtle designing
touches, with large doses of comfort fashion.
Go razzle, dazzle with Seema Khan
Seema Khan created six new glittering lines for Spring/Summer
2007 for her Lakme Fashion Week debut which were a glittering
presentation on the fourth day of the extravaganza.
Here were dresses with a show stopping, eye catching interest
that only Seema can create. Keeping the base of her creations
to georgette, muls and damask; Seema added wool floral motifs
and embroidery and completed the garments with an assortment
of belts that either perched provocatively on the hips,
clinched waistlines or were clasped under the bust.
The colour story was a generous mix of all the rainbow
hues ever created for stripes and florals while the finale
was a contrast in pretty pastel shaded lemon and blue.
Known for creating sexy seductive garments, Seema's silhouettes
remained true to what she does best - halter necklines,
one shoulder cuts, deep plunging rear necklines draped with
cowls, swishing asymmetric layered skirts, draped and rouched
bodices, tantalizing slits - all aimed at making the lady
the cynosure of all eyes as she enters a room.
Detailing was with lace trimmings, mirror crystals, hand
painted stones, jewels and Swarowski crystal belts and wool,
multi coloured beads and ribbon edging and detailing.
Here was a collection that could move effortless from the
beaches of Goa in the mid night; to the sunny sands of the
French Riviera where any Hollywood star would love to wear
it.
The finale creation on sister-in-law Malaika Arora Khan
was a pristine white will-power mini with a luxurious trial.
If it is glamour, glitz and arresting creations that one
wants, then Seema Khan is an ace at the job.
Liberty's fashion forward Gen Next
Liberty Gen Next presented five fabulous designer collections
at the Lakme Fashion Week proving that the future of Indian
fashion is an ocean of talent that will push the design
industry into the international fashion arena
VICE VERSA BY RUSHABH MANIAR AND TEJASWINI KULKARNI
Inspired by the beauty of Morocco, the shades of the land
were reflected in the cream, turquoise and beige colours
of the collection for well tailored western wear. Double
layered trapeze dresses, simple shirt frocks with frogging
closure, geometric embroidery for dolman sleeve blouses
and stylized cuts made the Vice Versa collection perfect
for the summer season.
AM RICH BY AMIT VIJAYA AND RICHARD PANDAV
It was a collection that revolved around the simple beauty
of Itajime shibori which is an ancient Japanese textile
art; where the indigo dyed creations had the technique strategically
used on various parts of the garments. Combining the technique
with solid colours like red, black, fuchsia and jade, The
Itajime dyeing appeared as splashes of colours or at other
times in the form of tiny flowers, giving the stark shapes
of women's wear an elegant appeal. Accessorized by Obi belts
the look was a mix of oriental and occidental chic.
ABDUL HALDER
Western bridal wear is an uncharted fashion territory which
Abdul Halder entered with some exquisite white lace and
net bridal gowns that glittered with sequins and crystal
embroidery. Long elegant trails, veils to cover the faces
and it were glamour all the way that will enchant any bride.
ISMS BY AJEET MISHRA
Here was an interesting look at men's wear through the
eyes of Ajeet Mishra. The all-white suits were presented
with colourful batik lining and contrasting batik shirts.
Moving through the various periods of fashion from Renaissance
to Pop Art, the detailing ranged from tab collars, kimono
tie-ups for over lapping jackets, pin tucks for jackets
and trousers and extended front plackets. Here was style
most suited to the man of future India.
SKIN BY NIDA MAHMOOD
Kitsch was the key word of this classic with street influences
collection inspired by Mata Hari and Catharsis. Reflecting
the punk rock era of the past; canvas jackets with antique
embroidery, halter tunics, multi paneled corsets and finally
some retro punk saris in a mélange of fabrics and
colours will give a new fashion direction to summer 2007
fashion.
Nikasha Tawadey's Calcutta chromosome
When the inspiration is the city of Kolkata's Great Eastern
Hotel, the collection has got to be unconventional.
The Great Eastern Hotel collection by Nikasha Tawadey for
Spring/Summer 2007 recreated the glory of those by gone
days when life was leisurely and the pace at ease.
The styles reflected the ambience of the 60s and 70s when
fashion was relaxed and languid. Starting with a colour
palette of white, pink, lavender, green to khaki, beige,
ivory and grey for jerseys, georgettes, satin, chintz and
brocades Nikasha had a touch of kalamari and the end result
was trousers, wrap skirts, jump suits, pencil skirts, sexy
blouses and tunics.
Detailing matched the mood of the inspiration as pleating,
pin tucks, floral prints; paisleys were interspersed with
the dual fabric selections.
The opening white broderie anglaise collection had pretty
dresses with mirror and sequins work; while waist coats
in the same fabric were teamed with pencil skirts.
Prints were on mull as crushed skirts, tunics and peasant
tops recreated the nostalgic past.
Jersey dresses were combined with printed georgette detailing;
while a black satin printed top with smock detailing worn
with a printed skirt glittered with sequin detailing.
For lovers of the days of wine and roses and the nostalgic
past, Nikasha Tawadey's collection will revive those wonderful
memories in a fashionable stylish way.
Chaitanya Rao's spring seduction
Just as a moth flits around in a field of beautiful flowers,
Chaitanya Rao's Spring/Summer 2007 collection at Lakme Fashion
Week was a breath of fresh air in the early morning.
Styling was tender as the petals of a budding rose on gossamer
fabrics like georgette/chiffon and the overall look was
dreamy yet seductive and oh, so pretty.
The moth was the recurring motif on most of the dainty
garments in print, embroidered or appliquéd form.
The opening pale grey chiffon tunic with moths scattered
all over worn with matching tights set the mood for the
collection. The frayed hem blouse with the theme embroidery
was teamed with the tiniest of pleated mini skirt.
Soon there was a stream of utterly feminine clothes that
set the summer mood from Chaitanya. A shirt dress with tiny
glittering motifs, a batik mini with a cream moth appliqué
blouse, a chiffon cream bubble will-power dress with a tiny
shrug, followed by a frayed hem acid smock, moth print dress
- the collection like a favourite summer melody was enchanting
to remember. Long frayed double hem dresses and skirts ended
this 'very relaxing to view and wear' collection.
Chaitanya's silhouettes were basic with mini skirts and
dresses along with seamless dolman sleeve hipster blouses
in colours that were muted and subtle yet a perfect backdrop
for the designer's inspiration. Accessories were restricted
to broad or thin belts that moved up and down the waist
line.
Chaitanya Rao has truly created a refreshing line for Spring/Summer
2007 with just the right amount of glitter.
Nathalie Garcon goes boho chic
Mumbai, Nov 2, 2006 - Show five - Day three : Paying
tribute to India at the Lakme Fashion Week French designer,
Nathalie Garcon opened her Spring/Summer 2007 collection
with an ethereal white lace dress worn with churidars and
then followed it up with a wrap skirt and moulded jacket
over the rouched Indian garment.
After that it was a fun line of western wear with an ethnic
theme. Some smart slate grey linen suits with contrast stitching
were part of a look that had a printed shirt with waistcoat
and skirt accessorized with Indian scarves.
Colour returned once again with a multi hued gypsy skirt
teamed with a slate grey floor length coast.
Smock sun dresses in vibrant shades added a happy touch
to the collection. Some smart clinched waist jackets worn
with polka dotted skirt set the pace for the cream and black
coordinates which came with a line up of lace edged slim
skirt, black camisole, gilets with parallels and a dramatic
graphic black and cream Spanish like tiered dress.
The collection inspired by the cote d'azur of the forties
had strong colours as 'bayadere stripes' and multi fabrics
were crimped into beach sarongs and bikinis, summer dresses
and sheer layered gypsy skirts added to the excitement of
the collection.
Nathalie Garcon created a fabulous collection that could
do well not only on the continent but even on the Indian
shores.
Leonard's Love in Paris
Mumbai, Nov 2, 2006 - Show five - Day three : It was
Viva La France as Leonard of Paris unleashed a colourful
presentation at Lakme Fashion week with a variety of dresses
revealing a distinct Parisian flavour. Like a romantic walk
along the banks of the River Seine, the Leonard collection
for Spring/Summer 2007 was splashed with a garden of exotic
blooms.
The full bodied fabrics like terry cloth, gave the abstract
shapes more definition while the silk jersey and chiffon
along with organza, waffled crepon created a fantasy of
women's wear where little frock coat dresses, beach minis
and tent dresses set the mood for the show.
While the rounded sleeves were the distinct characteristic
style for the dresses, there were wrapped and rouched creations
as well as pleated and printed trapeze ensembles. Toga like
minis and comfortable floor length loungers with peek-a-boo
rear interest and drapes completed the outdoor look.
The floral prints were a riot of colour that moved from
orange, vanilla, purple, violet white to aqua, fuchsia and
grey, while the multi-striped sun dresses had neutral caramel
shoulder strap edged with matte white leather insets.
For evening glamour there were shimmering multi hued smocks
where the colours palette ranged from red, fuchsia, brown
and orange. These were followed by long gowns with glittering
bodices. Detailing pointed to a high empire line almost
turning this cut into a yoke while the rounded sleeves turned
into extended puff versions.
Belts made a regular appearance for most of the garments
with buckles sporting the label's emblem - the orchid. For
lovers of French style, the Leonard of Paris label did not
disappoint with its chic collection.
Allen Solly reaches out to women
The way Indian women will dress for work and play will all
change come March 2007 when Allen Solly will launch its
Solly Woman and her Travelogue collection for Spring/Summer
2007 across more than 100 stores. Here is a perfect collection
for the working woman as well as the discerning fashionistas
who want to dress in the latest western wear.
Designed by the in-house team of Allen Solly; the show
opened with a pure white collection of knit blouses teamed
with linen skirts, Capris or leggings. The detailing on
the tops ranged from lace edging, drawstrings and neck ruffles
while the skirts were delicately tiered and edged with lace
and embroidery.
Little lace waistcoats and cropped jackets were worn with
sharply cut pants. For those high powered board meetings
the brand has crisp striped linen business suits in corporate
colours like beige, brown, blue and black, and comfortable
striped blouses that can be worn with gilets or waistcoats.
For fun in the great outdoors, there is a choice of T-shirts,
mini skirts, sporty halters, leggings, Capri pants and of
course denim for skirts, shorts and jeans.
Moving into some after 8 action, Allen Solly dresses women
in skin tight gabardine black pants with shirts in midnight
colours of deep maroon, black, and brown; worn with either
satin gilets or the popular cummerbunds. Chiffon blouses,
tailored jackets and formal trousers complete the feminine
look.
Allen Solly`s elaborate trendily designed women`s wear
will surely revolutionise the way the fairer sex will dress
in India during the coming year.
Rahul & Firdos present a visual treat
When Rahul Mishra and Samar Firdos presented their collections
in the Gen Next section of Lakme Fashion Week in April 2006,
the duo got a standing ovation. Therefore, their pairing
was natural, as the former is an ace designer and the latter
a brilliant textile person. Between the two their collection
for Spring/Summer 2007 titled 'SHEEN Unseen' was an amazing
feat of Indian craftsmanship that is difficult to achieve.
Starting with a rich textile base specially created for the collection, where the engineered fabrics in pearly shades of ivory, ecru and pale pink and blue with horizontal stripes at the hem were just the right weight for elegant cocktail dresses with interesting pleat detailing, the collection moved onto more intricate detailing techniques like smocking and Kutchi needle work.
The ethereal brosso in shades of white was crafted with pleats once again to take garments to a higher fashion level. The delicate needle and thread work of Bandhani was given a new direction by the duo when it turned into texturing for gowns, minis, skirts and blouses. A pink pleated balloon dress with half pleated trumpet sleeves was simply sensational.
A Spanish inspired panelled dress with spaghetti straps, a tailcoat dress with accordion pleats and finally the beautiful line up of gowns in shades of emerald, fuchsia, chutney, shaded green, grey and red were breathtaking. Each garment was dramatic in its simplicity, but brilliant in its visual beauty.
If Rahul and Firdos showed promise at their last show, their Spring/Summer 2007 collection will surely fill the racks in India and abroad.
Blast from the past
Mughal miniature paintings, flora and fauna, royalty and
the Kamasutra inspired Deepti Toor’s collection.
It was well crafted to create western wear with the right
touches of Indian craft and detailing, with clean and elegant
lines. Deepti, who had showed at the Lakme Fashion Week
Gen Next show in April 2006, designed her Spring/Summer
2007 line such that the feminine garments could move effortless
from day to evening wear.
The prints were in muted dull tones of maroon, deep green, black or wine red and the Mughal miniature prints appeared on the ecru base of a practical cotton base. Long linear drawstring dresses in ecru, gunny sack skirls, bubble dresses with piped hems, will power dresses with strategic prints, a triple bubble midi in pale green, a cut away sleeve printed smock and a dolman sleeves blouse with external drawstring interest were some of the eye catching garments of the collection.
Deepti's detailing zeroed in on inverted pleats with printed insets which she used creatively in either vertical or horizontal form for skirts and blouses. Dresses were clinched at the waist with printed or embroidered waist bands or sashes.
Deepti had a firm hold on her creativity which she revealed on all fronts and her sharply tailored dresses were a comprehensive spring/summer offering for Indian as well as western buyers.
Tapping the vibrancy of Omkara
When the inspiration is the hit film Omkara, then
the collection has to be as colourful and vibrant as the
theme. Swapnil Shinde's Spring/Summer collection had its
beginnings in the happenings of this Bollywood blockbuster.
The clothes were at times feminine at other moments rough
and rugged. The constant accessory was the metallic half
gloves while the fabrics included the evergreen Maharastra
handloom saris like the Narayanpet and Maheshwari for pleated
bubble skirts and dhoti minis.
Colours were as rustic to match the fabrics with sky blue,
brick, red, egg shell, ocean, sand and mango leading the
list along with pure white.
Working with the theme, Swapnil also brought in a touch
of the preppy look of the 70s then moved into the 80s for
peach draped ruffled cocktail dresses, metallic ribbon detailing
on draped green minis and then to tiny cutwork shrugs with
shading worn over a green draped dhoti skirt.
For a mix of the east and west there was a will-power dress
with rhinestone bodice over a trapeze layered dress, a white
drop waist elasticised shimmer mini, and wired wave like
tiers for a ruffled bodice dress.
Swapnil's interesting fashion innovation was the drawstring
effect that raised and dropped the hemline of dresses like
a curtain according to the fancy of the wearer. Swapnil’s
collection was interesting on all fronts whether it was
colour, style or design.
Where architecture meets fashion
Hailed
by the international press as the hottest designer to come
out of India in 2006, Arjun Saluja is all set to blaze a
fashion trail with his Rishta label. His Spring/Summer 2007
collection will please the fashion needs of the most discerning
women not only in India, but also around the world.
Inspired by Japanese draping and German architecture, Arjun is known to blend architecture with fashion and come up with amazing results. His garment story was varied, giving fluidity and structure equal importance. From his first dramatic entry of a black long toga dress edged with braid, the scene was set for exciting fashion.
The collection moved from dhoti salwars with a geometric top, pin tuck bubble skirts with structured pleated print tops, flowing Cossack pants, jodhpurs with side openings that revealed pearly shades of satin to boat neck minis, rouched skinny pants in beige and finally to metallic Star Trek like minis, shirts with side cutaways, flowing black dongree pants with intricate blouse and ended with a floppy ivory kimono jacket and wide pants with turn ups. Here was a collection that gave the show an unpredictable fashion excitement.
Fabrics like silk taffeta, chiffon, georgette, satin, tweed wool were mixed with leather, while the drapes and detailing will surely turn Saluja's Rishta line into a great seller.
Of European and Indian sensibilities
It
was colour all the way for Sandip Biswas when he presented
his Spring/Summer 2007 collection at Lakme Fashion Week.
Inspired by 19th century impressionism in the art movement,
Sandip's all-western line of flamboyant women's wear was
a mix of patterns, fabrics, colours and embellishments that
were moulded into a rather festive but casual collection.
Embroidery was a mix of scenic motifs or florals strategically placed on yokes, back, bodice cuffs and frills. The fabrics were cotton with checks, stripes, florals, and geometric patterns coming together in a fusion of layered skirts, body hugging blouses, long sensuous gowns with dancing flounces and stylised jackets.
Some of the interesting pieces were a blouse with a striking peplum in a contrasting fabric, shades of pink and orange appliqué for a top, an intricately quilted bodice that complemented a cream/blue floral dress and a peach tunic with embroidery and prints.
The peplum appeared periodically even for skirts, which were layered, tiered and frilled in a profusion of fabrics. It was a fresh and vibrant collection. The matching handbags were a perfect accessory for the creations.
Sandip, who has worked with Armani, Oscar De La Renta and Valentino in Europe and Shahab Durazi and Narendra Kumar in India, has made the most of his experiences to blaze a trail that is an unconventional mix of European and Indian sensibilities.
The quiet musings of Julie Kagti
Like
a breath of fresh air on the beach or a walk in the countryside
in summer, Julie Kagti's label Sutra Knots on Cloth gave
a refreshing look to Spring/Summer 2007 fashion. The theme
of the collection was the quiet musings of the designer
in solitude, searching for beauty in nature.
Using textile treatments to enhance her fabrics, which comprised chiffon, silk, khadi and crepe, with shibori dyeing patterns and kantha to texture them, the collection had fluid flowing shapes that moved easily around the wearer.
Colours belonged to a muted family of beige, chocolate, mustard, gold, blue, pink and cream. Some of the interesting western garments were a dress with kantha hand tucks embellished with sequins and raised appliqué circles inspired by the shape of a shell; the square double layered dress with tie up waist and an asymmetric pebble textured poncho with hand tucks; and a tie up worn with flared pajama with kantha wok. Julie also added Capri pants with slits which were teamed with a V neck kaftan top with ties at the waist.
The Indian element of the collection was from the four saris—starting with the patchwork piece with a combination of kantha and shibori, the double layered sari, another in kantha hand tuck and the final one with a design that had a blend of floral appliqué in yellow and white over gentle waves.
Julie Kagti's collection was one of calm and serenity which will be an interesting Indo-west fashion statement for Spring/Summer 2007.
Wendell Rodricks’ stylish shocker
For
Spring/Summer 2007, Goan designer Wendell Rodricks chose
the international colour palette of black, grey, white and
red, but his theme was far from summery and cool.
It was the ethereal mysteries from his region where beings
of the nether world abide. Les Vamps set the mood for a
fashionable shock for the audience at Lakme Fashion Week.
Wendell's fabric choice stayed true to his favourites-silk,
crepe, charmeuse, chiffon, cotton, linen, chenille, wool,
crepe, crushed silk, tulle, pleated organza, metallic Lycra
and woven damask which he skilfully textured. The Wendell
Rodricks silhouette has always been his forte with volume,
fluidity, flow and asymmetric layering.
But his constructions were strong, too, and so were his
innovations like the looped sari pallav, multiple net pleating,
angel and batwings, circular drapes, ripped satin inserts
and draped pleated tunics.
From his first entry of a long black flowing robe with
skinny trumpet sleeves over a red shimmering mini, the designer
carried the spiritual theme of a more dark kind with pleated
organza covers, black linen blouson with leggings under
sheer wrap skirts, a black voluminous poncho, grey shaded
long kurta, interesting circular dupatta sleeves, a dramatic
net sari with a pleated pallav and then moved on to black
asymmetric top over red lining worn with shorts, a tunic
with placement pleats on the bodice and black net gown with
flesh coloured lining.
Men's wear was stylish with sherwanis, short hip length
button less jackets, comfort tunics, sharply tailored shirts
with epaulets and sheer/opaque linen shirts. While the Wendell
Rodricks theme may have been a trifle unconventional for
the coming season, his collection was as earthy as ever.
Colours from the dark continent
For
Zimbabwe born and South Africa bred designer Clive Rundle
fashion is an idea that can take many forms. So his collection
for Lakme Fashion Week had a colourful mix of fabrics, styles
and detailing that presented the designer's creativity at
its best.
Starting with a saffron mul floor length over coat worn
with shorts, he brought in wine coloured velvet for structured
blouses and jackets and continued the fabric story with
crushed flowing covers over minis and jackets with flowing
tabs at neck and body.
Checks appeared for shrugs hiding printed mul dresses and
a striking piped petal blouse was an eye-catching entry.
The white organza collection had some clever structuring
for rear wrap dresses with deep cutaway backs and intricate
detailing. Clive scored well with the look where he crushed
and shredded the material to turn it into layers of feminine
flounces.
To give more variety, denim was used with subtle camouflage
print for military jackets, while the trouser silhouette
included some heavy brown/gold samurai pants teamed with
sheer blouses. Checks, a favourite with Clive, appeared
again in a blue/pink combination for sharply cut jackets
and matching pleated parallels.
For evening glamour there was a black short top with raffia
detailing on the sleeve worn with dramatic matador style
pants, while the trench coat dresses in deep grey with a
hint of pink were ideal for formal wear.
Clive Rundle gave a truly stylish introduction to India
of African fashion with his vibrant collection.
African sun rises in India
Asande
Madyibi and Balekwa Nazo, the designers behind the Sun Goddess
label, presented a fabulous collection of formal evening
wear with the right touches of African craft and western
chic. From the strong hues of Africa like earth, brown,
ochre, beige and sandy tones to leather and detailing with
feathers, the collection opened with a purple tiered cotton
floor length skirt with white piping teamed with a one shoulder
top.
Leather was treated with a lot of fashionable respect for
corsets, skirts with top stitching and bustiers. Patchwork
added one more dimension to a long skirt, while a satin
halter blouse teamed with a feather lined skirt recreated
the feel of the African country.
Revealing a distinctive Tsonga feel, which appeared through
the garments, the line comprised opulent gowns in shades
of deep scarlet, dazzling purple and royal blue. A brilliant
yellow will-power gown with brown piping, another brown
beauty worn with a red obi and Spanish ruffles at the hem
with green insets, a black blouson gown with ornate yoke
and a black rust/peach Spanish inspired creation in post
box red were ultimate glamour options.
There were more ensembles like the dull blue perma pressed
pleated gown with rouched bodice, a silk kimono gown in
shades of blue and finally a brown silk gown edged with
feathers with an ornate African cape to end the show.
The designing duo used draping, pleating, appliqué,
hand painting and intricate South African beadwork along
with lavish use of frills, flounces and feathers to turn
their creations into showstoppers.
The Sun Goddess label, with its international collection,
created a fashion stir at the Lakme Fashion Week among the
Indian fashionistas.
Nandita dazzles with her resort wear
When
it comes to creating stylish resort wear no one can beat
Nandita Mahtani who knows just what a woman wants to don
when she is relaxing on and off the beach.
Nandita's Spring/Summer 2007 collection had all the favourites
from her Ananya label as she unveiled a medley of colours
and styles with large doses of embellishment. Lycra, georgette
and satin are Nandita's favourites and she styled them into
minis, kurtis, kaftans, tube dresses, halters, jumpsuits,
skirts and some comfort wear for just lazing on the sands
under the moonlight.
Picking floral prints as her basic, along with solids,
Nandita opened the show with a striking jersey kimono dress
then moved onto a green bubble halter creation, added some
cute hoodies with embroidery for short jumpsuits and then
sent out a shimmering baby doll mini.
The drawstring played a stylish part in Nandita's creations
moving from the hips to the waist, giving the garments a
gentle blouson effect. Sleeve interest was the focal point
of most garments as butterfly, dolman, kimono, cut away
and flowing long sleeves were edged with the right amount
of gotta, mirror and resham work.
The colour story was a pastel chapter with baby pink, powder
blue and sea green along with Nandita's basic white, which
she predicts will be hot for the coming season along with
red.
The final section was a burst of gold and silver Lurex
for long slinky skirls, jumpsuits and a tiered white dress
with an empire line glittering bodice.
Surily Goel's 'Jewel' tones
Spring/Summer
2007 for designer Surily Goel is a time for shimmer and
glamour. She unveiled her collection called Jewel, a range
of dazzling formal western wear that has touches of nostalgia
dating to the stylish 1920s era-with the swinging Charleston
dresses with drop waist and chemise like creations that
give women a subtle yet slightly naughty look. Her collection
also had a touch of the Roman silhouette with seductive
toga like tops and dresses all teamed with gold strappy
Roman sandals.
Dividing her collection into four stories, Surily started
with light pink and opal green for little empire tops worn
with shorts and leggings, then moved onto rouched strappy
baby doll dresses, Roman toga tops with asymmetric skirts
and bubble skirts over flesh coloured body suits. Some subtle
glitter emerged from the beaded and rhinestone shoulder
straps.
The second collection started with sheer trapeze layered
dresses-self designed bubbles with touches of silver, gold
and black with just a slight spark of red and emerald green
appearing as piping or lining. The popular polka dots appeared
in all sizes for layered sheer chiffons and accessorised
with embroidered broad belts in the third segment.
Finally it was prints in shades of pink with gold gotta
ribbons and motifs for blouson shifts, with lavish embroidery
on hems, neck and sleeves. The dress was the focal point
of Surily's collection and, for her, the colours that will
make fashion news are red and silvery grey, which is the
'new black'. This was shown in a show-stopping cocktail
dress glittering in its simplicity worn by ex-model Rhea
Pillai.
Surily Goel's Jewel collection will surely prove a treasure
trove of style and elegance for the Indian fashion conscious.
Shyamal & Bhumika's shadow play
Nov
1, 2006 - Show two - Day two : The designing duo of Shyamal
and Bhumika Shodhan has strong fashion credentials. The
former is from the Central St Martin's School of Art and
Design while the latter studied at the National Institute
of Fashion Technology. The combination of these two creative
minds was their eclectic Spring/Summer 2007 collection called
Colours of a Shadow that revolved around muted shades of
tobacco, khadi browns, amber, green, olive, white, beige,
gold, salmon pink and banana for natural fabrics like linen,
raw silk and hand-woven brocades.
Playing with a predominantly western silhouette, but with
Indian fabrics and craft; the embellishments moved from
appliqués, quilting, texturing and patch work to
gold khadi print, pleating, layering, hand stitch detailing
all on a very discreet and subtle note. The duo's collection
had a distinct identity which was inspired by the romantic
season of spring in Paris when love is in the air.
Striking creations were the canal blue brocade top worn
over crème raw silk skirt, pastel turquoise dress
with hand stitch detail and pleated yoke, the slate pink
off-shoulder dress with brocade leaf appliqué, a
delightful appliquéd shrug over light gray parallel
calf length trousers and a stylish sand storm colour sleeveless
dress with quilted extended placket.
Making some new style statements, the pair teamed a textured
silk dress with short churidar pants and a rust dress with
gold khadi print with the tiniest of honey gold shrug. For
Shyamal and Bhumika their Colours of a Shadow collection
is undoubtedly all set to put them in the limelight for
the coming season.
Anupamaa Dayal's amazing grace
Nov
1, 2006 - Show two - Day two : Blending Indian crafts with
western silhouettes comes easy to Anupamaa Dayal and her
collection called 'Grace' had all the beauty charm and femininity
that gave the garments a stylish edge on the fashion scene.
Anupamaa's inspirations for her Spring/Summer 2007 collection
was a mix bag of diverse thoughts right from the Japanese
Samurai, an old Afghan rug and even the dry leaves in her
garments.
Her fabrics were silks, satins and traditional textiles
all crafted into shapes that created a beautiful poetic
story on the wearer. Shades of opal, silver, pebble and
pearl had dashes of Kingfisher blue and strong red making
her ensembles stunningly eye-catching. Embroidery and detailing
was used not only to embellish the saris and other garments
but also to enhance their style and form. The grey floral
print quilted jacket with indigo slip dress, the fan print
wrap dress with the magnificent black needle work waistcoat
the black heavily crafted needle embroidery silk fitted
jacket that had an assortment of multiple colour satin stitches
were some stunning examples.
From the cocoon to the bubble silhouettes, Anupamaa moved
to a striking reversible wrap jacket in blue and gold gotta
embroidery worn over a pale olive shift dress and then onto
an unconventional tulip shape red raw silk dress. Anupamaa's
mix and match concept for her line of separates gave the
complete ensembles a stylish international twist.
When it comes to Indian crafts that need to be presented
in a western mode; Anupamaa Dayal has carved an enviable
niche for her brand, which will give the Indian as well
as the foreign buyers a taste of style, culture and elegance.
The oriental side of Anand Kabra
Nov
1, 2006 - Show one - Day two : A graduate of the London
College of Fashion, Anand Kabra's debut collection at the
Lakme Fashion Week brought in the quiet elegance of Japan.
Titled Hatsuhi which means the 'first sun' in Japanese which
is about renewal, Anand brought his inspiration in the form
of the contemporary circle in different forms and sizes
throughout the collection.
Keeping the colours to more earthy tones, he had blue,
green, russet and gold as the back drop for the prints,
embellishment and fusion styles. Skillfully hand painted,
embroidered and appliquéd; the sun motifs moved from
over sheer elegant kaftans, dresses, saris as well as kurtas
and skin tight churidars and leggings to flirty skirts.
Freedom was the key factor of Anand's creations allowing
the wearer to move gracefully in the garments although the
latter were often detailed with the right entwined fabric
touches.
While the silhouette was structured, some of the pleated
skirts were teamed with interesting tunics. Necklines were
seductively molded to the body in chiffons and silks. The
collection had the fluid feminine feel as a striking orange/brown/jade
will-power kurta was teamed with churidars while its sheer
longer version had a dramatic elegance. Saris and lehengas
carried the theme further on the ethnic front while fusion
wear like a long line blouse with a mini and embroidered
leggings were unconventional ensembles.
Anand Kabra, a Hyderabad born designer is hailed as the
city's 'first son of design' who is skilled in blending
his borderless creations with intricate embellishments.
Abhishek Dutta stuns with fusion line
Nov
1, 2006 - Show one - Day two : Graduate of the Wigan &
Leigh College, Kolkata and winner for Eastern India at the
Smirnoff International Fashion awards in 1999, Abhishek
Dutta made a stunning debut at the Lakme Fashion Week with
his collection titled Immortality for Spring/Summer 2007.
Sticking to a muted palette of hues like beige, green and
peach Abhishek created garments that ranged from the western
dress to the traditional sari but gave each genre of fashion
his characteristic touches in fabrics like knits, cotton,
silk, brocade and chiffon. His eye-catchers were the multi
fabric pleated shot silk mermaid skirt, the very intricately
crafted lattice work paneled version of the same, the balloon
skirt teamed with a colourful corset blouse, an earthy balloon
skirt with vertical embroidery teamed with corset, a pair
of Capris with dramatic cowls at the hips and a pair of
tight rouched churidars worn with a gathered bodice and
ballerina skirt.
Saris took on a new avatar with lace edging, or gave the
pallav a crushed elastic treatment dappled with embroidery.
Abhishek's fabric mix proved that he can create a perfect
combination of diverse textures and weaves. The draped silhouettes
had intricate detailing and embellishments giving a new
dimension to structured clothing. Abhishek Dutta's label
ADNormal is an interesting combination of the east and west
bringing together detailing of a very high standard.
Vikram Phadnis goes Bollywood glam
Mumbai
Oct 31, 2006: Vikram Phadnis's maiden appearance at the
Lakme Fashion Week proved that he is Bollywood's ace designer
who can create dazzling glamour for his heroines.
The glittering line of evening wear titled Blithe Panache
had everything and much more for Indian women who desire
to dress like Bollywood divas. Playing with a colour palette
which revolved around green, blue, red and orange with variations
of the same for jersey, nets, georgettes and chiffons; Vikram
let his creativity move into top gear as he unleashed a
spectacular line of long layered flowing gowns, short sexy
halter minis, some unconventional ethnic wear where the
sheer rouched churidars were teamed with tantalizing kurtis
over tiny bikinis.
Playing with prints, Vikram mixed and matched florals,
geometrics, and stripes and came up with a perfect cocktail
of night time glamour. Embroidery has always been Vikrams's
forte and he used it lavishly on his garments as well as
the regal saris and cholis. Giving the staid jackets a new
twist he created them from sheer chiffon and sprinkled them
with pearls and crystals while adding a more detailed peplum
and an ornate skirt. Jerseys, nets and georgettes vied with
each other to give Vikram's creations the right touches
of flow over the feminine form. The traditional lehenga
turned into a swirling full circle georgette skirt teamed
with short embroidered sherwanis.
Creating a dramatic blend of ethnic and western ensembles,
Vikram Phadnis scored brilliantly with his ultra glamorous
line that will definitely be a show stopper for the wearer.
Priyadrashini goes pastel
Mumbai
Oct 31, 2006 : Her clothes always have that dreamy beautiful
element that only Priyardarshini Rao is capable of creating.
Her Summer of 2007 collection at the Lakme Fashion Week
had the soft ethereal colours of nature as tones of pale
crème, sky, beige, jade, moss, mocha deep coffee,
petrol and charcoal added gentle touches to delicate fabrics
like voiles, muls, organzas, linens and light silks. At
times a clever mix of all the fabrics gave a rich look to
the ensembles.
Known for her command over texturing of fabrics, Priyardarshini
played with pleats moving them skillfully all over the garments
from yokes, to sleeves and then on to the bodice and skirt
and finally on the hemline. Her creations for men and women
were comfort personified, embellished some reverse appliqués,
cutwork, and edged skilfully with frayed edges.
Women's wear swayed gently from trapeze dresses, empire
line tunics, tiny shifts and blouses and then onto flirty
short layered skirts, some form fitting knee length ones
and then finally moved onto tunics which were teamed with
either skin tight churidars or voluminous salwars.
Trousers were easy on the shapes with the patched pockets
moving adventurously up and down the legs for both sexes.
The drop waist dresses and long line shirts for men added
that laid back look to Priyardarshini's collection.
Embellishments were discreet - floral embroidery, tonal
appliqués, some contrast godets and inverted pleats,
a sprinkling of shimmer and touches of dull gold dots.
Priyardarshini Rao's Summer of 2007 had everything - style,
form and comfort to cool down those hot summer days and
nights.
Stanza dazzles with colour
Mumbai
Oct 31, 2006 : It was a dream of a show for every male when
Stanza the Numero Uno shirt and trouser brand in India presented
its latest collection at the Lakme Fashion Week. Every colour
under the sun and every pattern turned the humble shirt
into a designer item as pastel stripes bright orange with
muted contrasts, multi stripes, floral, paisley and abstract
prints gave a limitless option to choose from.
While the shirt shape remained basic, it was the interesting
detailing that made the garments eye- catching as floral
cuff linings with striped shirts and contrast collars and
cuffs gave some stylish touches.
The collars were the popular spread shape with a 5 cms
collar point. But the round cuffs turned a little broader
with double buttons or at times in the classic French cuffs.
Occasional detailing like pleated patched flap pockets and
epaulets gave some interesting touches to the shirts. Knits
were striking especially a bright red with black horizontal
stripe Tee with contrasting white collar and cuffs. The
fabrics were a selection of rich cotton, linen, silk and
blends.
The accompanying trousers which are a specialty of Stanza
were in linen, cotton and blends slim in silhouette with
just the right amount for detailing that added to the elegance
of the garment.
Known for their immaculate tailoring, the Stanza shirts
and trousers have impeccable finish with 18-22 stitches
per inch throughout.
Style wise the Stanza shirts and trousers are the latest
in fabric, design and cut as seen on the international catwalks
of the world.
The three Stanza labels namely Linea Classica, Linea Sport
and Linea Moda present a cross section of men's wear that
caters to the casual and formal genres giving the Indian
man the best in western wear.
Indjapink reaches out to world cultures
Vineet
Bahl`s collection for Spring/Summer 2007 had the unusual
title Indjapink at the Lakme Fashion Week but revolved a
kaleidoscope of cultures to create a rich tapestry of women`s
wear.
Divided into six sections, Vineet started with the pristine
white Victorian segment where tone-on-tone chikan work was
given a new treatment almost turning it into appliqué.
The shapes were empire line and the effect `very little
girl lost` in appearance.
Alhambra was a contrast as colours suddenly appeared for
tunics with embroidered yokes and satin Capris, reflecting
the mosaics of the Alhambra Palace in Spain. Josephine brought
back the empire line but slightly unconventional for long
will power gowns caught at the bust with black or red piping
and pleating as the main stay of the collection.
The Tiara line had tunics with leggings with the 1930s look
with net insets in shades of black, with splashes of pink.The
Pastoral was in matka silk for separates, layered gathered
skirts and floppy tops in contrasting fabrics like washed
silk to smooth satin. The colours here were vibrant with
sapphire, smokey topaz and ivory in the forefront. Embellishments
were with raffia, velvet cutouts and tiny wooden beads.
Clinched waists and drop shoulders added to glamour of the
garments.
The Temple line had all the colour and drama where the temple
border of the saris were transposed onto garments in silk,
georgette and chiffon strips in horizontal and vertical
designs. Vineet Bahl's Indyapink was a fun filled bright
collection with all the right touches that will appeal to
the contemporary fashionista.
Delectable Chocolate, from Dev r Nil
Mumbai,
Oct 31, 2006: Dev r Nil, the talented Kolkata duo`s presentation
at the Lakme Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2007 was a delicately
embellished, feminine line of women`s wear in muted colours
that gave the garments a beautiful ethereal look and its
very apt name Chocolate.
Having a firm control on the silhouette, the duo stayed
true to fluid lines with the balloon and bubble shapes as
their favorites for skirts, tunics, blouses, camisoles,
and some very unconventionally styled prestitched saris.
The fabrics were predominantly jersey with a hint of crushed
handloom cotton for the hemlines, tulle for edging, georgette
for pleats with dramatically executed smocking for bodice
and hems.
Discharged prints were used in their muted form for tea-dyed
jersey dresses on shades like ecru, carab lime soda and
banana while a hint of red to the excitement of the creations.
Block prints appeared but were hardly visible yet added
a touch of class to the garment. Wrap tunics were cleverly
draped and then twisted around the body to flow gently down
to the floor.
The prestitched saris with embroidered waistbands and cowl
neck blouses resembled graceful gowns. Glitter was discreet
with antique sequins adding just a hint of dazzle.Dev r
Nil scored on all fronts with their beautiful collection
that swayed like a delicate bouquet of summer flowers in
the breeze making the wearer the cynosure of all eyes.
Cubism inspires Narendra Kumar
Oct
31, 2006 - Show one: Day one
There was humour; there was subtle colour and loads of
striking detailing when Narendra Kumar opened the Lakme
Fashion Week with his Spring/Summer 2007 men's wear line.
Titled The Artist Inside, Narendra had drawn his inspirations
from abstract art of Jackson Pollack the cubist movement
and through the works of George Braque so the mainstay of
the collection was detailing which appeared on trousers,
shirts, and jackets.
Starting with a batik shirt and linen trousers his shirts
were replete with flapped patch pockets, some embroidery,
and tiny floral prints. The jackets with one or two buttons
were either vent less or with two vents once again with
some quirky detailing like a single printed label, triangular
contrast bands, puffed pockets.
But it was with the trousers that Narendra allowed his imagination
to run riot. Lots of zippers appeared all over, while the
legs tapered down to almost skin tight silhouettes and the
Capri and cycle shorts had pleating, large flap puffed patched
pockets, or contrast piped slit ones.
The silhouette always remained close to the body with an
occasional burst of volume and the look was more sporty
than formal. Even the two piece suits were in dual colours
worn at times sans footwear.Colours ranged from natural
to apple green olive, rust, and gold. There was some tongue-in-cheek
humour when a white linen kurta came with a misplaced printed
two piece colour on the body or the swinging horizontal
striped shrug. His finale white linen suit with hand painted
strokes on Bollywood hunk, John Abraham was a stylish yet
unconventional formal option.
Narendra Kumar's men's wear gives a new ultra modern millennium
look to clothes which the Indian man will enjoy wearing
during the coming season and also be of great interest to
the western buyers.
|